Well I awoke VERY late in fabulous Oconto--I think I slept so good because the a/c didn't work in there. I learned back in my Barnabas days (Barnabas is a camp in rural Missouri where I slept for an entire summer in the out-of-doors temps with only a fan to keep the steam circulating) that a/c does quite a bit to give us colds in the night, as your grandparents would be quick to point out. I slept very soundly and longly.
Once up and out (say, noon), I got myself around the bend of Green Bay as soon as possible, and started heading back north on the tiny Door Peninsula. It's called that because it's all Door County up there. Get it? Door Peninsula is a tiny little finger that juts up northeast into Lake Michigan. Before I drove too terribly far, though, I had to deal with my hunger. Now, having done my homework by studying up in ROADFOOD (go buy your copy NOW),

I knew that I must needs be getting a product called a Butter Burger into my gut. This is an east Wisconsin delicacy in which you top a hamburger with a pat of butter. You know, for health purposes. I'd also yet to sample the Wisconsin frozen custard, over which I was in great anticipation. Lo and hark and all that, but I came upon a place with this on the door:

That pretty much set me up. Culver's it was. I ate those things along with Dairyland Cheese Curds, which was a bizarre name for what turned out to be tater-tot sized fried cheese. Okay. Now, this was an outstanding hamburger, I can certainly say that--and I'm not a big hamburger guy. This was impressive.
Up into the peninsula I went, finding cute coastal town followed by cute resort town followed by quaint fishing villiage. The west side is cuter than the east side, with Ephraim and Fish Creek kind of taking the prize. [There is no prize.]

On my way up, I stopped at Bailey's Harbor looking for a barber. "Ernesto," I said to myself, "there HAS to be an old-timey barber in one of these well-kept towns." I went into a coffee shop for directions, and asked the girl behind the counter. She didn't understand what I said, and told me so in a severe accent. I asked where she was from. She was from Bulgaria, and the other girl behind the counter was from Poland. I paused for a moment, then decided that I didn't need to hear the back story. I continued to look until, on my way out of the Door Peninsula, I stopped by a place on the main drag of Sturgeon Bay called the Yankee Clipper. I'd not have known to stop there except that they had that helpful barber pole with the stripe of blood running down it outside. All professions should have these visual aides. I know the doctors have those intertwined snakes (an inscrutable symbol if ever there was one--is that supposed to be a Biblical reference?), but nobody else does. It's outrageous!
I can't TELL how pleased I am with the way that haircut turned out. I met Joe Lindsley, a 40-year barbering vet, who cut Packers coach Mike Sherman's hair during his tenure (he'd just been sent Houston Texans paraphernalia from Mr. Sherman, who's now an assistant coach there. I saw the goods!), and had lots of sports memorabilia up on his walls. This guy was at the Ice Bowl! It was great talking to this guy, and he buttressed the idea I've had with the Rod about creating an upscale chain of barber shops and men's grooming. It's a dying breed, and I hate to see them go. Joe told me that there isn't one barber school in Wisconsin anymore. Sucks.
The day was getting on, and I knew that I faced an uncomfortable decision: dinner vs. exercise. Part of me was hoping for some Lake Michigan fish at some roadside joint (as talked about in famous books like ROADFOOD), but I saw a GIGANTIC YMCA and had to stop in. This was the YMCA for the whole of Door County, and it's a wing-dinger. It was only built in '97, with a massive wing added in '02. Two huge pools, great workout rooms, and 2 sweet basketball courts. I got my hoops on and did some weights. Good times. I got kicked out at 8pm.


My my, that hair's been lopped off in SUCH a handsome pattern! And, is that Ode De Y Locker Room you're wearing?
Then I was driving once again, headed south. I made it all the way to Port Washington, just 30 minutes north of Wisconsin, which is great because tomorrow I hope to rent a motorcycle from the Harley-Davidson headquarters there and take off west. I went through Dairyland, I suppose, because dairy farm after dairy farm separated the road from the Lake. After pulling off the highway, I stopped at a grocery store to get some cereal when I spied Sprecher Root Beer in the snack aisle. This was introduced to me by Wunderkind, and I do love this stuff. So I bought like six cases and moved on, into the night.

I found this country inn that said $50 SINGLES on the sign, so I stopped in (not a great price, but passable). Talking with Chris behind the desk, she told me that their only non-smoking room was a hot-tub suite. I talked fast and here I am, God bless her every one.
Miles driven: 425
Exercise: YMCA!
Lecture: the final installment from Mike Pearl’s Body, Soul, Spirit series
Writing: I failed on this one, today. This post is accomplishment enough.
Cash outlay:
Culver's Butter Burgers and other blood-clotting ingestives: 11
Yankee Clipper: 15
YMCA: 8.75
Cereal and Sprecher: 19
Hot Tub Suite: 54
Total: $107.75
PS- Today my ipod loved John Gorka and Norah Jones, both Didi picks, as well as Jack Frost (real name), the Gutteral Sermonizer. There was some “next song”ing done in the Camry.
PPS- I also considered today how much more I could get done if Bobby was awake in the car with me. Reading, navigating, writing, documenting with the photos—all would’ve been much better. I think, too, that if I had a MONTH to do this trip, I wouldn’t feel so frustrated with all I have to miss. It’s too bad, really.
One last thing: I like the semi-sour smell of dairy farms. I guess I owe this to my experience with them in my childhood due to my Uncle Kenneth, who owned one. If by poor sentence construction I made that sound like Uncle Kenneth smells semi-sour, I have misled you. He smells like Old Spice and alfalfa.





































