There will be nothing spectacular here: this will be purely record-keeping as the need to put SOMETHING above light-saber dork has reached a critical mass (can a NEED reach a MASS? Probably not, but you get me).
I left Cincinnati on December 15.

I drove to Texas and had a great experience with Cajun food along the way (my Achafalaya adventure may or may not be recorded here later).

I visited Peepee and Hamster and rk in College Station, which was great. (Look at this photo: it's young Blythe Douglass and her father's discarded PBR. Nice.) Then I flew to NYC where Dora's siblings and their families gathered for Christmas.

If it's a NY cliche, we did it: skating in Central Park, Christmas with the Rockettes, Macy's,-the-largest-store-in-the-world, shopping bags in SoHo, Judah Friedlander at Caroline's, etc. etc. Then I came back to Houston, where I saw Jiff. Then I drove to Dallas, where I met Didi, and we stationed with her Second Family for about a week. I saw Mr. moljer, Cardzen, Peb, my sister, Havard, Josh Patterson, and others. Now we're on drive back home. This is where our story begins.

In fabulous Malvern, Arkansas ("A bad place to catch an unusual disease"), my '99 Saab wagon went ssssss-*boink*. Then my power steering went away, my a/c died, and the smell of sulphur filled the cabin. This happened on a Saturday around noon. EVERYTHING closes at noon on Saturday in Malvern, Arkansas, the same with its high-falutin' neighbor, Hot Springs (only 15 miles away). Eventually, we found an about-to-close U-Haul place, which rented us a Towing Dolly (this is the contraption onto which you drive your front wheels and it pulls you, piggyback style. We were caravaning with Didi's younger sister (who lives in Nashville), so she pulled my car to Memphis, some 3+ hrs down the causeway. We dumped the Saab at a dealership, dumped the dolly at a U-Haul place, and let sister go on her way. Exhausted and excruciated, we found a hotel, knowing that we'd be stuck in The Birthplace of the Blues at least until Monday, when the dealership would look at the little guy. THIS is where our story really begins.
So Didi and I are now stuck with hotel time we'd not budgeted for, and time in a generally unattractive city with an amazing history. Like the make-do traveller I am, I hit the pavement Sunday morning, and we saw this Memphis. Now, my experience with Memphis is mostly limited to the fact that it's a substantial signpost on the way to Nashville from Houston (a trip I made a few times when schooling at Belmont U), and about halfway between Cincinnati and Dallas. It's a place to find a La Quinta or what have you. It has a bad racial history, from what I understand (not that Cincy's too great in that department), has an industrial feel that competes with Cleveland for Most Drab, and was the starting point for TONS of musicians, including (are you ready for this?) Johnny Cash, Elvis Presley, B. B. King, Aretha Franklin, Carl Perkins, John Lee Hooker, Justin Timberlake, Howlin' Wolf, Jerry Lee Lewis, Bobby "Blue" Bland, Charlie Rich, Lucero, Al Green, Muddy Waters, Tina Turner, Roy Orbison, Sam Cooke, Booker T. and the MGs, Otis Redding, Isaac Hayes (recently featured on this page for his bald-with-beard look), Sam and Dave, and let's not forget the amazing Three 6 Mafia. Oh yeah, Memphis was recently declared the Most Sedentary City in America. People who live here are called Memphians. We did this:
-Visited the Rock and Soul Museum, which is put on by the Smithsonian folks. It was very informative and inspiring, I must say. The sharecropping background of people like Johnny Cash is a huge part of our nation's musical history, and all that stuff was reviewed here. The importance of Sun Records, Stax Records, and Hi Records were also cataloged, along with all the major artists of their respective eras. I loved it. Made me want to write and sing some old-fashioned songs.
-Took in Gibson's Manufacturing plant. Here, right across from Beale Street, Gibson creates its incredible guitars. A tour lets you see every step of the process, and even look in on the dudes who're making guitars right in front of yo eyes. neato.
-Genuflected at the Civil Rights Museum. There are some places, like the Pyramids in Cairo, that I really don't feel I deserve to see. This fits in that category. In a stroke of genius, some good souls bought the Lorraine Motel, where MLK Jr. was murdered. It has been rebuilt from the inside to accommodate the museum, which chronicles a short history of slavery, important figures in early American anti-slavery, and on into lunch counter sit-ins, Rosa Parks, Montgomery bus boycotts, Little Rock integration, Freedom Rides, Birmingham, and the March on Washington. Finally, you turn a corner and you're IN room 306 of the Lorraine Motel, looking out at the balcony. Spooky, man.
-Walked down to Sun Studios. Sam Phillips opened this tiny "recording service" in 1950, and Ike Turner made it explode with his "Rocket '88" hit. Elvis and Johnny Cash and Carl Perkins and Roy Orbison followed. Tiny place, but because U2 recorded part of Rattle and Hum there, it was a must for me. Rock history, baby.
-Stopped in on Pau Gasol and the middling Grizzlies. Pau, Rudy Gay, and the unflappable Mike Conley, Jr. took on Ricky Davis, Dwyane Wade, Shaquille O'Neal, and the rest of the miserable Miami Heat in a Sunday afternoon match. Didi and I found a hard luck scalper (who wants to see two terrible teams play in a blue-collar town?) and got in for $15 a piece. A fun dalliance. Consternating as it is to say, Wade and Davis (and, in flashed, Conley) were the only players in the building. The rest were Guys Born Tall or Good Shooters.
-Gave Beale Street a once-over. Like Austin's 6th street or N'Orleans' Bourbon Street. Bar-after-bar-featuring-spangling-neon isn't really my idea of a good time. Like seeing the Mona Lisa at the Louvre, you come into proximity with the gawkers, get a general sense of it, then move on. B.B. King's Blues Club? Check. Let's move along...
On tap for today, auto service pending:
-The Duck Parade. Apparently, a red carpet is rolled out daily at 11am and 5pm as a parade of ducks makes its way through the lobby of the 5-star Peabody Hotel. Okay.
-Graceland. Duh. Didi's never seen this hillbilly's Life Trophy. If you've never seen it, either, then let me just say that if you chew tobacco and gave camo Crocs for Christmas, you probably think heaven looks a lot like Graceland. Garish, silly, and sophomoric, it's everything I don't want to be. I guess you could say it embodies America in a lot of ways. Am I interested in seeing it again? Absolutely.
-More time at the Civil Rights Museum. Our tickets are good for 2 days!! Suckers!
And that's it. I'm not sure what those crazy Catholics are up to with their belief about Limbo, but it's got to be a lot like being stuck in Memphis until your car gets repaired. And that's the news, folks!

